The Long Arm of the Lao

I'm here in Luang Prabang, Laos and this spot seems worlds away from any other city or town we've been to. It's expensive to get here relative to the other flights we've taken, but it's certainly worth it and the folks who are here just seem like different travelers, like "children of the earth" travelers. More tatoos, more dreds, more earthy clothes, fewer teeth. You know what I mean. Anyway, I kind of got a feeling this place might be different when after we arrived we sat at a cafe which had cloth napkins, served us water in wine glasses, and had Sinatra playing in the background. After a watermelon shake the size of 40oz and a delicious chicken with lime I just took a deep breath and realized that this is in fact not same same, but different. And I don't just mean because they serve chicken with lime. But the food, oh the food. It's been heavenly. It's so lush here and you have to believe that those little adorable Lao raindrops get all up in those fruits and veggies so when those fruits and veggies get cut open and served it must be the way Mr. Buddha intended it to be. Last night we decided to try water buffalo sausage and while it was not kosher, it was most definitely awesome. And while I'm thinking about kosher, I was walking on the street the first day and we walked by these four girls who looked like they could be members of the tribe. Turns out they are staying in the room next to us and just graduated from Penn. Moral of the story, never travel to Laos without your Longchamps bag. Ever.

The French influence here is very evident. Even the little street urchins have a little je ne sais quoi. And there are the dogs, which are not mangy like in Cambodia and Vietnam, but almost regal. Whenever I see one of these regal beagles walking by I say "what's up Lunch" because let's not get it twisted here...those dogs could end up on a dinner plate as fast as you can say "sabaidee", which means "hello" in Lao. The pace is slower, the meals are longer, cafes are more prevalent, people less likely to rip you off, and it's just quiet, oh, and smoke free according to UNESCO.

I just got back from a day river kayaking on the Nam Ou River which was something straight out of a brochure or the Discovery Channel. We stopped for lunch on a riverbank inhabited by some local Khmou children. The Khmou are one of the ethnic minorities here. The guides flipped over a few kayaks, went into the jungle and got some banana leaves and then laid out meats and veggies with on the leaves and gave each one of us a handful of sticky rice to use as a spoon of sorts to mop up the food and shovel it into our faces. Amazing views and a solid day all around.

I now understand why people call Laos the "itinerary buster" of SE Asia. There's just so much to do in the way of treks if you choose and even if you don't want to channel your inner Bear Grylls all the time there are plenty of activities, and a lot involve the water which is always a plus in my book. The only negative is that there's a curfew here and most places shut down by 11pm or midnight, but then, and I swear to you, the one spot that is the go-to for after hours is Bao Ling, a bastardized spelling of our beloved American Bowling. They have six lanes and a crazy bar that goes until you decide to stop. Bowling...in Laos...come on, really? Yes really.

Here for a few more days then off to Thailand. Likely no more blogs until then. Happy Father's Day out there to all the Baby Daddies.